Wednesday, November 28, 2007

You Cannot Get Thrashed on Vodka Pie Crust





Cook's Illustrated Magazine and cooksillustrated.com are among my favorite food publications and resources. I like their methods. It comforts me to know that they systematically tried a thousand different variations in order to find the best way, and I like how their articles break down the science behind why certain things work and certain things do not. I don't know, it makes me want to wear a lab coat.

Anyway, this holiday season, CI introduced their new recipe for a Foolproof Pie Dough - one that is easy to manipulate without it falling apart on you while you roll it out, but one that is as buttery and flaky as any pie crust you could ever want. The secret is alcohol! Something about gluten reacting with something, I forget. But if you add ice cold vodka to your pie crust, it allows the dough to become nice and supple without causing the result to be tough and gross.

Guys. This was like rolling out cookie dough. It was so easy that I was skeptical it would taste good. I used the two-crust recipe (below) to make an Apple-Cranberry Pie and the one-crust recipe to make a Pumpkin Pie. I'm the youngest of like a hundred siblings and they love to make fun of everything I do, no matter what, so I was amazed when all of them only said things like "Wow!" and "Oh my God!" and "This is so perfect!" at Thanksgiving. How do you make a light, flaky, melt-in-your-mouth pie crust that didn't rip a thousand times as you try to maneuver it onto the pie plate? BOOZE!

(Note: It is certainly possible that some of you guys have never had any trouble with pie crust dough, but I'm just saying. Why not make things easier for everyone? Also, in case you are worried that I got my little nieces illegally wasted on vodka, the alcohol bakes off in the oven, and you can't taste a thing!)

Foolproof Pie Dough for a Two-Crust Pie (1 9" two-crust pie)
(The secret here is to really trust their amounts and times. Things will seem weird to you because certain visual and textural cues won't be like you remember them, but just go with it. I promise.)
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (12 1/2 ounces)
1 teaspoon table salt
2 tablespoons sugar
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cut into 1/4-inch slices
1/2 cup chilled solid vegetable shortening , cut into 4 pieces
1/4 cup vodka , cold
1/4 cup cold water


1. Process 1 1/2 cups flour, salt, and sugar in food processor until combined, about 2 one-second pulses. Add butter and shortening and process until homogenous dough just starts to collect in uneven clumps, about 15 seconds (dough will resemble cottage cheese curds and there should be no uncoated flour). Scrape bowl with rubber spatula and redistribute dough evenly around processor blade. Add remaining cup flour and pulse until mixture is evenly distributed around bowl and mass of dough has been broken up, 4 to 6 quick pulses. Empty mixture into medium bowl.

2. Sprinkle vodka and water over mixture. With rubber spatula, use folding motion to mix, pressing down on dough until dough is slightly tacky and sticks together. Divide dough into two even balls and flatten each into 4-inch disk. Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 45 minutes or up to 2 days.


For one 9" Single-Crust Pie

1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (6 1/4 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon sugar
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (3/4 stick), cut into 1/4-inch slices
1/4 cup chilled solid vegetable shortening , cut into 2 pieces
2 tablespoons vodka , cold
2 tablespoons cold water


1. Process 3/4 cups flour, salt, and sugar together in food processor until combined, about 2 one-second pulses. Add butter and shortening and process until homogenous dough just starts to collect in uneven clumps, about 10 seconds (dough will resemble cottage cheese curds with some very small pieces of butter remaining, but there should be no uncoated flour). Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl with rubber spatula and redistribute dough evenly around processor blade. Add remaining 1/2 cup flour and pulse until mixture is evenly distributed around bowl and mass of dough has been broken up, 4 to 6 quick pulses. Empty mixture into medium bowl.

2. Sprinkle vodka and water over mixture. With rubber spatula, use folding motion to mix, pressing down on dough until dough is slightly tacky and sticks together. Flatten dough into 4-inch disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 45 minutes or up to 2 days.

3. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on oven rack, and heat oven to 425 degrees. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll out on generously floured (up to ¼ cup) work surface to 12-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick. Roll dough loosely around rolling pin and unroll into pie plate, leaving at least 1-inch overhang on each side. Working around circumference, ease dough into plate by gently lifting edge of dough with one hand while pressing into plate bottom with other hand. Leave overhanging dough in place; refrigerate until dough is firm, about 30 minutes.

4. Trim overhang to ½ inch beyond lip of pie plate. Fold overhang under itself; folded edge should be flush with edge of pie plate. Flute dough or press the tines of a fork against dough to flatten it against rim of pie plate. Refrigerate dough-lined plate until firm, about 15 minutes.

5. Remove pie pan from refrigerator, line crust with foil, and fill with pie weights or pennies. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove foil and weights, rotate plate, and bake for 5 to 10 minutes additional minutes until crust is golden brown and crisp.


***************************************
The Apple Cranberry Pie was something special also. Here's the recipe and some pics. I'd never made such an attractive two-crust pie in my life.

Apple-Cranberry Pie (from Cook's Illustrated)
Use sweet, crisp apples, such as Golden Delicious, Jonagold, Fuji, or Braeburn. The two fillings can be made ahead, cooled, and stored separately in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Makes one 9-inch pie

2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
1/4 cup orange juice
1 cup granulated sugar (7 ounces) plus 1 tablespoon for top of pie
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon cornstarch
3 1/2 pounds sweet apples (6 to 7 medium), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (see note above)
1 recipe pie dough (see related recipe)
1 egg white , beaten lightly


1. Bring cranberries, juice, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon salt to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally and pressing berries against side of pot, until berries have completely broken down and juices have thickened to jamlike consistency (wooden spoon scraped across bottom should leave clear trail that doesn't fill in), 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in water, and cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.





2. Meanwhile, mix 1/2 cup sugar, remaining 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and cornstarch in large microwave-safe bowl; add apples and toss to combine. Microwave on high power, stirring with rubber spatula every 3 minutes, until apples are just starting to turn translucent around edges and liquid is thick and glossy, 10 to 14 minutes. Cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

3. While fillings cool, adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on oven rack, and heat oven to 425 degrees. Remove 1 disk of dough from refrigerator and roll out on generously floured (up to 1/4 cup) work surface to 12-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick. Roll dough loosely around rolling pin and unroll into pie plate, leaving at least 1-inch overhang. Ease dough into plate by gently lifting edge of dough with one hand while pressing into plate bottom with other hand. Leave dough that overhangs plate in place; refrigerate until dough is firm, about 30 minutes.

4. Transfer cooled cranberry mixture to dough-lined pie plate and spread into even layer. Place apple mixture on top of cranberries, mounding slightly in center; push down any sharp apple edges.

5. Roll second disk of dough on generously floured work surface (up to 1/4 cup) to 12-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick. Roll dough loosely around rolling pin and unroll over pie, leaving at least 1-inch overhang on each side.

6. Using kitchen shears, cut evenly through both layers of overhanging dough, leaving 1/2-inch overhang. Fold dough under itself so that edge of fold is flush with outer rim of pie plate. Flute edges using thumb and forefinger or press with tines of fork to seal. Brush top and edges of pie with egg white and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar. Using sharp paring knife, cut four 1 1/2-inch slits in top of dough in cross pattern.

7. Place pie on preheated baking sheet and bake until top is light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees, rotate baking sheet, and continue to bake until crust is deep golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Transfer pie to wire rack to cool at least 2 hours. Cut into wedges and serve.


In the oven!

********************
I'm not just saying this because I'm worried I'll get busted for reproducing their recipes, but the $20 annual fee to join cooksillustrated.com has been the best $20 I've ever spent. They have instructional videos for practically everything, and equipment ratings that have already saved me a bunch of money (I used to just buy the most expensive version of everything, but now I know to do my research first). Plus they have a weekly newsletter that is both non-intrusive and inspiring every single week.

(My siblings now call the pie "Vodka Pie," but the tones in their voices sound awestruck, not sneering. Thank you, Cook's Illustrated. Thank you.)

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

THESE THREE PIES

I can't believe that I am the first one to post the spoils of the latest excuse for lots of desserts: Thanksgiving!!
I, the one who was plastered (literally) to my bed with a fever of 102.7, fighting off Bronchitis until as recently as this am! My my. Well before I pass out from the Day Quill vs. Azithromycin battle taking place inside me let me tell you about these three pies.

The first was the pie that would not stop nagging me to make it ever since I spied it in Saveur. I had posted the recipe below a couple weeks ago. As I was busy constructing that innocent looking beauty, I turned to Marty and said "How much Cardamom do I add"? to which he replied

"one tablespoon"

A few moments later when I went over to check something else I noted it called for a TEASPOON. Well, that is why he is the DJ and I'm the rapper. It still came out nicely. Not your usual Thanksgiving pie. Very bright and creamy with a loud cardamom kick.
Next was a simple and INTENSELY rich chocolate tart. It was a knockout and folks had little nibbles then went back to nibble more.
The last of our friends here is a Pumpkin Cayenne pie with a gingersnap crust garnished with spicy candied Pepitas. It made me woozy just looking at it! (HENCE THE BLURRY PHOTO) I was still looking for the spicy after I was done with my slice and it did linger for a moment but I had hoped it would have been stronger. I like my spices to bite me back. The health food store where I purchased the Cayenne, they were selling it cheap and for good reason, it's past it's prime I think. So there you have it.
Milky
Cocoa-y
Spicey (kinda)

WHAT HAVE YOU GUYS BEEN EATING?






Monday, November 12, 2007

Cream Puff Testimonial

My dude has the good sense to live across the hall from Nicole, and Sunday night we ran upstairs hoping she had left him something from her pastry class. I took a bunch of pictures because they were so pretty. I know she already blogged about it, but check these out, seriously:









(OK this one was a mistake when I hit a wrong button while editing the photo but I ended up thinking it was awesome.)

They also tasted phenomenal...and I AM a cream puff person.

PASTRY CLASS cream puffs and tarts






Okay. So this class was one I have to say I was not looking forward to. I am not really an eclair or cream puff kinda lady. At a bakery I will always opt for something else...usually less classic. Now I don't know if the next time I am presented with a PATE A CHOUX pastry I will go for it or not, but I had THE MOST FUN making these lil cuties.
It is a pretty long process and you need patience for the piping but once they are done, you realize it's not that big a project. We boiled water and butter then dumped in flour to make the pate a choux. The pastry cream is basically your classic custard recipe. Add a bit of ganache and you have choc pastry cream. I am sure there are many variations. The little guys are dipped in fondant icing. The big ones filled with pastry cream then whipped cream. Oh so delicious! The tarts were made with a nut paste called frangipan. We used almond frangipan but walnut and pecan are popular too I guess. The tarts did not look too great to me but once I tasted them.....LOOKOUT. Good God! They were the perfect kiss of light almond confection accented with the various fruits and nuts we topped them with. Pate sucree dough and piped frangipan filling are easy to make and easy to freeze! Who knew. The only problem is they are waaaaaay to easy to eat..
The top picture is of an idea i had during class...."can we make gruyere puffs?" Chef Jeff said "sure". A bit of salt pepper and um, a lot of gruyere added to the pate a choux and you have the perfect snack to go with some wine before dinner... or a delicate vessel for a wild mushroom mixture..or....

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Cardamom Buttermilk Pie

I had to post this Cardamom and Buttermilk Pie from this months Saveur!
An awesome update on a classic American pie, which is always fun for holidays dinners. Tho I do love standard pumpkin, it's nice to have a different pie to try. The pic in the link looks a bit blue, but having never made it perhaps it looks that
way...
here is the recipe:
FROM SAVEUR
MAKES ONE 10" PIE

Buttermilk pie, an American classic, is a forerunner of cheesecake. Real, old-fashioned buttermilk is the liquid left over from the churning of ripened cream for butter; it has a tangier, more complex flavor than the version found in stores today. In this recipe, sour cream helps replicate the taste of true buttermilk.

1 1⁄2 cups plus 3 tbsp. flour
1 tbsp. plus 1 cup sugar
1⁄2 tsp. fine salt
14 tbsp. butter (10 tbsp. cold,
4 tbsp. melted and cooled slightly)
2 tsp. white distilled vinegar
1 tsp. ground cardamom
3 egg yolks
1 cup sour cream
2 cups buttermilk
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1. Combine 1 1⁄2 cups flour, 1 tbsp. sugar, 1⁄4 tsp. salt, and cold butter in a sealable plastic bag and freeze completely. (This may be done up to 3 months in advance.)

2. Mix vinegar and 1⁄2 cup ice water in a bowl. Turn the freezer bag's contents out into a food processor; pulse until chunks of the butter have been reduced to the size of large peas. Add vinegar mixture to flour mixture and pulse briefly to just incorporate. Form the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

3. On a well-floured surface, roll dough out to a 13" circle about 1⁄8" thick. Fit into a 10" pie pan; cut away excess dough, leaving a 1 1⁄2" border. Tuck the overhanging dough underneath itself to form a thick edge; using your fingers, pinch the edge to create a wavy pattern. Cover and chill for 1 hour.

4. Heat oven to 400°. Prick bottom of dough with a fork; line with foil and fill with dried beans. Bake the pie shell for 10 minutes. Remove the beans and foil and bake until light brown, about 10 minutes more. Let cool on a rack.

5. Whisk together remaining flour and salt with the melted butter, cardamom, egg yolks, and sour cream; beat in remaining sugar, buttermilk, zest, and lemon juice. Pour into cooled pie shell, place in oven, and reduce heat to 325°. Bake until set on the edges but slightly wobbly in the center, about 1 hour. Let pie cool completely on a rack and refrigerate. Serve the pie cool rather than cold.

PATE SUCREE!!!!!!





This past Sun night was Pate Sucree!! I had never made it before. WOW. What an easy dough to work with, I was stoked to have an option to Pate Brisee which, has been trickier in the past for me. We had options to choose between Pecan, Blueberry Cherry,or Walnut Chocolate and I went with Pecan because I do not really like Pecan Pie but I want to and the Chef recommended this one highly. If you can believe it- I HAVE NOT TRIED IT YET. It is in my fridge. It has more pecan and less goop than other pecan pie recipes I have seen and pecans are whole, not in pieces. I know i have to post some of these recipes but I keep leaving my book at class!! Anyway there it is. Next week = PATE A CHOUX!!!

Easy Holiday Treat!


So I found this super easy Chocolate Chip Pumpkin Loaf recipe (makes 3 loaves, I made 2 loaves and then lil mini-loaves). I'm not even a big pumpkin fan! but with chocolate chips...mmmmm...it was worth it! I brought a loaf to work, and seriously, my co-workers were really impressed and they totally attacked it (didn't even bother slicing, just tore into it).










Choco-chip Pumpkin Loaf!

INGREDIENTS (Recipe from All Recipes)
3 cups white sugar
1 (15 ounce) can pumpkin puree
1 cup vegetable oil (I used Canola)
2/3 cup water
4 eggs
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup miniature semisweet chocolate chips
1/2 cup chopped walnuts (optional) -i didn't put any in

DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease and flour three 1 pound size coffee cans, or three 9×5 inch loaf pans.

In a large bowl, combine sugar, pumpkin, oil, water, and eggs. Beat until smooth. Blend in flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, and salt. Fold in chocolate chips and nuts. Fill cans 1/2 to 3/4 full.

Bake for 1 hour, or until an inserted knife comes out clean. Cool on wire racks before removing from cans or pans.